PLA Not Sticking to Bed: 7 Easy Ways
Those experienced with 3D printing are well-acquainted with PLA filament, the go-to material for FDM printers due to its user-friendly nature, durability, safety, and cost-effectiveness. However, even with its widespread use, PLA often presents challenges, notably when it comes to the issue of 3D print not sticking to bed. Achieving a strong first layer adhesion is crucial; otherwise, the print can detach, leading to a failed project.
Addressing the problem of a 3D print not sticking to bed is thankfully one of the more manageable difficulties encountered in 3D printing. Our guide is dedicated to providing seven simple yet effective strategies to secure your PLA prints firmly to the print bed, thus eliminating the headache of prints coming loose. These solutions typically involve quick adjustments to your slicer settings or printer hardware that can be completed swiftly, ensuring a smooth and successful print job.
Why Successful First Layer Adhesion Matters
Before diving into the solutions, it helps to understand why solid bed adhesion for layer one matters in the first place. Simply put, the first layer sets the critical foundation for every other following layer.
As the print head deposits that initial layer of melted filament, it must fuse securely to the print surface below. This gives the following layers something to build on top of. Without proper adhesion, the first layer warps or detaches rather than forming a base. From there, spaghetti strands prevail over structured prints.
Bed Adhesion Relies on the Right Balance of Factors
- A Clean, Level Surface: Debris, dust, oils, and uneven areas disrupt consistency.
- Proper Nozzle Distance: Too far and cooling filament won’t stick, too close, and it can’t flow freely.
- Suitable Extrusion Flow: Under Extrusion leads to gaps, and over-extrusion causes overflow bumps.
- Optimal Bed Temperature: Warm beds help filament stick, while cold ones promote shrinkage.
Getting all elements aligned and achieving excellent first-layer adhesion becomes easy. Keep reading to discover seven tips for dialing in the ideal settings with PLA.
1. Re-Level the Print Bed
The importance of a flat, level print surface can’t be overstated. After all, if the bed itself features peaks and valleys, achieving consistent nozzle-to-surface distance becomes impossible, no matter the other settings.
Uneven beds are a leading cause of uneven first-layer adhesion. High points might squash the filament, while low points permit lifting or shifting. So, the first thing to check is the leveling of your print bed.
The process for achieving proper leveling depends on your specific 3D printer model. Broadly, there are two main approaches:
- Manual Bed Leveling: Also called tramming, manual leveling relies on the user to adjust the bed’s height at set points until an even plane is achieved. This typically involves loosening leveling screws in the corners and gingerly raising or lowering sections while checking for consistency with nozzle checks or feeler gauges.
- Automatic Bed Leveling: On many modern printers, an auto-leveling probe handles much of the heavy lifting. Sensors like BLTouch and other inductive probes map the bed's topography then interface with firmware to enable height compensation. This takes human error out of the equation while enabling quick leveling with the click of a button.
Regardless of the method, periodically validating and tuning bed levelness is a worthwhile first step before tweaking other parameters. Even minor deviations can throw off first-layer success.
2. Dial in the Right Z-Offset Gap
Speaking of the nozzle-to-bed gap, let’s talk about the proper spacing for ideal first-layer squish and adhesion. This critical measurement is controlled via the Z-offset value entered in firmware or the host slicer.
In basic terms, Z-offset controls the nozzle height when the Z-axis reads “0”. Get it right, and you’ll lay down beefy first layers that stick like glue. Too high, and the cooling filament warps before fusing. Too low, and you risk nozzle crashes or mangled skirts.
So, what makes the “right” number? As a starting point for PLA:
- 0.10mm gap if printing directly onto a glass bed
- 0.15mm for PEI sheets
- 0.20mm when using adhesives like glue or hairspray
The catch is that the optimum Z-offset can vary slightly between machines, filament batches, part geometries, and print settings. So, don’t be afraid to experiment in 0.05mm increments above or below the baseline until you observe the ideal squish.
Here’s a great visual tipoff from teaching tech: proper first-layer height with PLA should give a textured, matte finish rather than a glossy sheen from excess smooshing.
3. Clean Any Print Bed Residue
PLA might have a reputation for sticking “too well” under the right conditions. But even this grippy material struggles to adhere when the print surface is dirty.
Oils from handling, dust particles, adhesive leftovers, and general workshop grime can all interfere with getting a pristine first-layer bond. That’s why keeping your print bed squeaky clean is essential for repeatable prints.
For bare glass and metal print beds: Wipe down with 90% isopropyl alcohol using a clean paper towel or lint-free cloth. Allow to fully dry before printing. Repeat before each print.
For surfaces with PEI sheets or adhesive: Gently wash with warm, soapy water, then rinse clean. Air dry fully or gently pat with a towel. Adhesive can be reapplied to small sections as needed between jobs.
Once you’ve eliminated any surface films from past prints, you can rest assured that any adhesion issues stem from slicer settings or mechanical factors rather than debris deposits.
4. Add a Bed Adhesion Aid
Speaking of adhesives, actively applying a bonding agent is an easy software-free hack for enhancing the first layer stick. Common options range from DIY solutions like glue sticks and hairspray to purpose-made commercial offerings.
Hairspray
A light misting of hairspray is the classic go-to for stubborn prints that refuse to hold their position on bare build plates. The aerosolized film acts as a tacky intermediary glue. Just be conservative with your spritzes, as heavy wet coats can pool and leave bumpy surfaces when dry.
Adhesive Slurry
DIY adhesive mixes also work wonders for adhesion assistance. A 50/50 mix of PVA craft glue and water brushed on the heated bed dries to help grab hold of incoming filament while remaining water-soluble for cleanup.
Specialty Sticks
Finally, there is a myriad of commercial bed adhesion solutions to aid first-layer sticking - from classic glue sticks to novel liquid offerings (a high-tech synthetic compound). While costlier than homebrew methods, these Engineered adhesives can provide impressively tenacious sticking power with easier removal after prints finish.
Whatever option fits your workflow, having some adhesive handy to prime the print bed is a smart practice to save failing jobs. Just don’t overlook tuning other settings first, as heavy-handed use of adhesives alone often leads to accumulation issues over longer print runs.
5. Slow Down Initial Print Speed
Now that we’ve covered the critical hardware factors, let’s move to the software side of enhancing bed adhesion. One of the easiest slicer tweaks is lowering the initial layer print speed, often listed separately as “first layer speed” in most applications.
The idea is straightforward: stretching the slow-oozing bottom layers gives added time for the molten filament to grab hold and fuse with the bed before hardening. Rushing this crucial phase risks breakaway strands or uneven adhesion across larger surface areas.
For PLA, aim for 25-30 mm/s on initial layers, then ramp up for the body. Bumping bed heat during these passes helps, too. If you still see pulling or separation, try dropping the first layer speed incrementally until 15 mm/s. Slower than that risks heat buildup or extruder slippage.
Dialing backflow rates simultaneously can also improve results by minimizing “ooze” between print moves. Just be careful not to starve the nozzle. Once your job gets rolling, resume at full speed!
6. Set an Envelope Brim
If gingerly creeping the first layers along still leaves gaps in adhesion, it’s time to add a little insurance policy. Enter brims and skirts!
These simple perimeter traces around the main print act as sacrificial adhesion pads and towlines. Unlike rafts, they utilize the same material as your model, adding fleeting build time.
For bed sticking, brims reign supreme. By overlaying a micro-skirt that has one nozzle width around your part, they maximize the surface contact area for the slicer to lock onto the plate. An added bonus: brims peel off easily post-print!
Here are the magic numbers for an ideal PLA brim:
- 8 solid wall loops
- 4mm horizontal expansion
- 0.45mm nozzle overhang
This envelope design seals the bed with a contiguous binding layer to hold prints fast through those delicate early layers when they're most prone to dislodging. Set and forget!
7. Upgrade Build Surfaces for Durability
While most bed adhesion struggles can be conquered with finer tune-ups, lackluster build surfaces themselves eventually wear out over time. Marks, scratches, and dents take their toll on layer consistency.
Rather than wrestling with a battered, warped print bed after hundreds of prints, upgrading to durable surface materials can provide fresh traction for PLA parts - along with insurance against future damage.
Here are two of our favorite alternatives:
Borosilicate Glass
Flat, rigid, and naturally stick-resistant when heated, glass print beds represent an economical upgrade. thermal shock resistance Also allows alternative adhesives like hairspray or glue without absorption issues. Just mind the fragility!
Spring Steel Sheets
Another innovative option, is flexible steel print beds like the Wham Bam system flex to pop finished prints off easily. Then they snap back perfectly flat every time. No need to pry, scrape or force removal. Superb durability and longevity, too.
While costlier than the stock build plates included on many desktop 3D printers, quality third-party beds deliver reliably strong first-layer adhesion over longer lifetimes.
Achieve Effortless First Layers with Creality
And there you have it, whether tuning slicer settings, upgrading hardware, or simply cleaning regularly, improving poor bed adhesion for PLA is easier than it looks. A few common sense tweaks make all the difference.
To further expand your 3D printing know-how and capabilities, we encourage checking out Creality's diverse lineup of beginner-friendly printers.
Renowned for reliability combined with intuitive operation, Ender series machines feature options like removable magnetic print beds, resume print functionality and filament detection for frustration-free printing.
Even the latest cutting-edge offerings like the high-performance Sermoon D3 Pro, fuse innovative direct drive toolheads with rebel filament capabilities plus AI-powered failure detection. Truly future-forward!
Whichever model fits your needs, Creality delivers an exceptional 3D printing experience right out of the box. So you can spend less time struggling with bed adhesion or other basic settings, and more time unlocking your creative ideas in stunning 3D.
To start your journey, browse Creality's full catalog of exceptional printers and accessories at our official website.
FAQs about 3D Print Not Sticking to Bed
1. Why is achieving strong first-layer adhesion crucial in 3D printing with PLA?
The first layer sets the foundation for the entire print. Without proper adhesion, prints can warp, detach, or fail.
2. How does bed adhesion rely on a balance of factors in 3D printing?
A clean, level surface, proper nozzle distance, suitable extrusion flow, and optimal bed temperature contribute to successful first-layer adhesion.
3. What are some practical strategies for enhancing bed adhesion with PLA?
Strategies include leveling the bed, setting the right Z-offset gap, cleaning the print bed, using adhesion aids, adjusting print speed, employing an envelope
